So You’re Going to The Netherlands: Survival Tips for The Most Developed Cycling Country in the World

The following guide was written by Kevin H. Posey ahead of a recent Sustainable Urban Development study visit to the Netherlands, hosted by the Dutch Cycling Embassy for a delegation from Atlanta, Georgia. It was so entertaining, insightful, and surprisingly accurate that we decided it was far too good to keep to ourselves—and asked Kevin if we could share it on our website.

Maybe you’ve been to The Netherlands before, but it’s been awhile. Or, perhaps this is your first trip. Either way, you may feel a bit intimidated at the prospect of going to a highly-developed country that functions very differently from what you’re used to. You may have questions, such as whether you will be required to learn the Dutch language or wear wooden shoes to fit in. So, here are a few tips.

Biking

Do I really have to bike? Yes. Or run real fast. Your choice.

Even in the rain? Yes. Your best clothing investment is a lightweight rainjacket and maybe some pants that dry quickly. Or, you can do what some fashionable young women do and bike while holding an umbrella in one hand. This is not recommended, unless you want a funny story to tell your family while they are gathered around your hospital bed.

What’s it like to bike in Nederland (that’s what cool people call The Netherlands)? It’s pretty great, but there are some rules:

1. Do NOT stop in the bike lane or path to take a picture or answer your phone. You could hit by the cyclist(s) behind you and have your ancestry insulted in a language you don’t understand. Signal you are slowing down (hand pointed down, palm facing rear) and pulling over to the right (hand pointed to the right). Pull out of traffic as much as possible.

2. Do NOT stand in the bike lane. This is what tourists do, shortly before they wake up in the hospital.

3. Pay attention when crossing tram tracks. You’ll find old streetcar lines in some cities, many still in use. But, it’s not the trams you have to worry about— it’s the tracks, especially when they’re wet. Make sure your front wheel is at least somewhat perpendicular to the track when going across. If you are somewhat parallel, your narrow bike wheel will go down into the gap between the metal and the pavement, thus stopping your bike abruptly while you keep going and discover how hard brick pavement can be.

4. Slow traffic should keep right. The people behind you have somewhere to be. If you hear a bell, that means someone wants to pass you. Please don’t be like so many motorists and obliviously stay on the left.

5. It’s not unusual for people to bike side-by-side. If you need to pass them, ring your bell. Your bike will have one— they all do.

6. If you see something like this– 🚳, walk your bike. It might be a pedestrian plaza or path.

7. If you see this— ⛔️, and you see a small sign below it saying, “Behalve fietsen”, or something like, “Fietsen uitzondering”, it means that cars can’t go that way, but bikes can. Fietsen means bikes in Dutch. Expect to see a lot of streets like this where cars are more restricted than bikes.

8. If you see a sign like this— ⭕️ and with human figures inside it, that’s a pedestrian zone. Walk your bike.

9. Don’t bike on the sidewalk. People will look at you funny.

10. Remember that in Nederland, not all cyclists are motorists, but all motorists are cyclists. Cars aren’t quite as terrifying as they are in, well, everywhere else on Planet Earth.

What are their rules about using cellphones while biking? Dutch authorities recently banned the holding of cellphones while riding and are clamping down hard. If the police see you doing it, it’s straight to a cell in The Hague that you’ll share with a war criminal. Or possibly just a steep fine— depends on the judge. If someone in your group holds up their phone to shoot video, pretend not to know them and ride away quickly.

Should I pack lots of Lycra for the trip? You do you, but know that everyone in the country wears normal clothes when biking. It’s just a way to get around, not Tour de France training. Plus, they don’t wear helmets. Cars are typically kept separate from people on bikes, so the need for a helmet— and maybe full body armor— is much less than in a lot of countries.

Clothing

What kind of shoes should I wear? You can leave your wooden shoes at home. The Dutch don’t wear them, except for maybe a few old-school farmers with muddy pastures full of cows. The joke in Nederland is that there are more cows than people. Once you get out of the cities, that doesn’t really seem to be a joke. All of that cheese in the market stalls has to come from somewhere. Wear something that’s comfy on cobblestones and perhaps a bit water resistant. Rethink the stilettos and cowboy boots.

Communication

Must I learn Dutch? No, you might hurt yourself. The guttural G is very tough to pronounce, although the language is strangely easy for English-speakers to pick up once you get past the strange spelling (there’s apparently a national surplus of letters—makes long words necessary). If you do want to get a few words and phrases, try Duolingo or something similar. However, be aware that virtually everyone in Nederland speaks flawless English. Even if you attempt to speak in Dutch (to their amusement), they will switch to English the moment they realize you’re not a polder-dweller. That can be frustrating when you are actually trying to learn the language.

Can I use my cellphone? Most cellphone providers offer an international plan. Typically, it’s a fixed amount for voice and data per day it’s used. Reach out to your provider to get this added to your service. It should activate once you arrive and start playing Words with Friends.

What apps will I need? Download the Lime, umob and the NS Travel Planner apps. The first two can be used to rent shared e-bikes in several Dutch cities. The latter is the app for Nederlandse Spoorwegen, the Dutch railroad company. Use it to book trips, reserve seats, see schedules, plan routes, and receive live updates on whether your train got canceled because it hit a cow. The app will also suggest other routes to get around incidents, cow-related and otherwise.

What number do I call in an emergency? Dial 112. This is an EU-standard emergency number, much like 911 in the US or 999 in the UK. This covers medical, police, and fire. For non-urgent matters, like someone stole your cheese wheel, dial 0900 8844.

Paying

How do I pay for stuff? If you are from the US and kind of old, you might remember an ad about how places would take Visa, but not American Express. That’s Nederland— the whole country. Your hotel may take Amex (better check that), but few other places will. The Dutch are rapidly moving towards a cashless society, but it wouldn’t hurt to get a few Euros at the airport or from a bank ATM, which are linked to many, if not most, major overseas banks.

Should I tip? It’s considered customary to round up bills for what they call drinking money. The idea is that after their shifts, the wait staff can hang out with friends and have a beer or Berenburg (a powerful spirit favored amongst the Frisians—drink at your own risk). Restaurant staff get paid a proper wage by law.

What are shopping hours? These are typically pretty short compared to some countries. For example, Dille & Kamille, a home goods/gardening/cookware boutique that’s headquartered in Utrecht (definitely worth a visit), is open 10 AM to 6 PM every day except Sunday, when they are open noon to 6 PM, and Thursday, when they are open from 10 AM all the way to 9 PM. Thursday is considered a shopping day, so the longer hours may be complemented by street markets, which are also usually active on Saturdays. They are gradually extending hours, as thirty years ago everything closed on Sunday and opened late on Monday, which made grocery shopping a challenge. Restaurant hours can vary a lot.

Can I bring back tulip bulbs? Maybe. There are vendors at Schiphol Airport that sell specially sealed and labeled packages that are allowed into other countries like the US, but you may want to check with your country’s customs rules before you try it. Flower-smuggling is a silly reason to end up in jail.

Safety

What should I worry about? Not much. In terms of violent crime, Nederland is safer than most countries in the world. Iceland is probably safer, unless the puffins get rowdy or a hungry polar bear turns up. However, pickpockets and bag snatchers can be a problem at major gathering points, like big city train stations. Keep an eye on your phone and don’t leave it out on a café table where someone can grab it. Apparently, smartphones are targets worldwide because of the vital data we all keep on them, like bank accounts and Words With Friends stats.

Terrorist incidents have been few lately, but it’s always a good idea to pay attention to your surroundings. Frankly, you’re much more likely to get smacked by a granny on a solid steel bike (seriously, that’s what they ride) because you stepped into a bike lane without looking. She’ll probably only bobble a bit, but you’ll be in a Dutch hospital trying to remember your name because those things pack a punch.

Travel

How do I get around the country between cities? By train. Imagine if your city had a very clean subway or light rail system that ran all over the entire country. That’s what trains are like in Nederland. Technically, the entire country has an extensive regional rail (aka commuter rail) network, but they run constantly like a subway or light rail system. So, trains are frequent between AMS Schiphol Airport and Utrecht.

Should I book a first or second class seat on the trains? First class is not that much more expensive than second class and it’s more comfortable. Plus, there’s more likely to be a spot for your overstuffed luggage. Be aware that some cars are Quiet cars, so neither chatting nor phone calls are allowed. Violate this and expect to get some stern glares.

How do I get to my hotel in Utrecht from the train station? You walk, so wear comfy shoes. Be sure you bookmark your intended hotel on your preferred map app. Note that some hotels are either inside Hoog Catherijne, the central upscale mall, or are best reached by going straight through the mall.

How should I find my way around? Once you have gotten an international phone & data plan set up (see “Communication”), you should be able to use Apple Maps and Google Maps. Note: The Dutch Cycling Embassy offers a self-guiding tour in Utrecht that can be loaded as an overlay on Google Maps. Look for it as well as self-guided tours for other Dutch cities here. The overlay links for each city are just above that city’s map.

Do I need a Visa?  The EU is working on an electronic travel authorization scheme. In fact, you may experience some delays at EU Customs & Immigration because the phased rollout of the new system is not going well. Waits of up to two hours have been reported at some major airports. So, visit the restroom before you get in line to avoid embarrassing incidents on your first day. Important: If you plan on going to the UK at any point of your trip, you will need to get a separate electronic travel authorization before entering. Go here to learn more.

Weather

Will it rain? Yes, but probably not in the form of monsoons and massive thunderstorms, though massive storms can happen. The main church in Utrecht was blown down by a North Sea storm centuries ago, but that was because the locals were cheap and didn’t install flying buttresses for added structural strength (Oops). Typically, it’s a light rain that falls.

When is it warm? Roughly from April to September. However, it can get chilly in the early spring and late fall. That said, you shouldn’t experience any freezing fog, which is super-fun! It can actually get quite warm, so maybe leave the big puffy jacket at home. The bottom line is that you will want to wear something comfy.

When is it cold? In October a big switch gets thrown that turns off the warm weather. It stays either cool or cold until April, so you can now pull out the puffy jacket and look forward to the freezing fog (Huzzah!). Nobody knows where this weather switch is hidden— maybe it’s in the Royal Palace, but the King won’t say.

When is it hot? From late May through August, heatwaves are possible. Dutch weather is getting warmer just like everywhere else in the world. Dress for it and stay hydrated. The nice thing about cycling, especially on an e-bike, is that you can generate your own breeze without a lot of effort.

ENJOY YOUR TIME IN THE NETHERLANDS, um, I mean NEDERLAND!